Copper Work; An Illustrated Text Book for Teachers and Students, by Augustus F. Rose. 123 Pages. Softbound. There is something about copper work that appeals to people and holds their interest. The nature of the material, hard enough to offer some resistance and yet pliable enough to be wrought into many forms, the durability of a copper object, and variety of colors that can be obtained, all tend to make the subject not only interesting but fascinating. This expansive book contains a wide variety of projects for both the novice and expert manual artists and is chock full of helpful illustrations. For those interested in metallurgy, copper, manual arts, or those wanting to learn about copper work, this book is all you need to get started. List price is $7.95 and our price is $7.16 plus S & H.
Articles from Amateur Work Magazine
Lathe-Making for Amateurs
by Hasluck, Lukin and Durrance
reprinted by Lindsay Publications Inc
As someone who bought a lathe rather than build one, I firmly believe that people who build lathes are a cut above those of us who just buy. Why? Because in the process of building, debugging and perfecting a machine you learn lessons that can be learned no other way. Another example of the school of hard knocks I guess. I would like to build one the lathes described in this book, but there are too many projects in the queue. I'll never live long enough to build everything I want.
You get three series of articles on building a metal lathe. Well, maybe it's more like two and a half.
The first series entitled "Lathe-Making for Amateurs" by Paul Hasluck started off explaining the readers what lathes were about, the types available in the 1880's, and what they would do. He then explains the poppit head and how to bore the headstock. But this fourth article is the last. He quit writing.
The second series is "Lathe Building for Amateurs" by James Lukin, well know for his expertise on lathes. Here, Lukin explains that the reader really shouldn't be concerned why Hasluck's series stopped, and that he was going to take up where Hasluck left off because building a lathe is an important activity.
The last series by F J Durrance is entitled "Lathe Chucks for Amateurs". No, there are no three-jaw scroll chucks described, but there are number of others of value.
Lukin's series is really the best. He describes buying castings, scraping them, checking alignment and such. He recommends buying castings because that was too complicated for the average reader.... for them maybe, but certainly not for you. He recommends using another lathe to build a lathe. But it's not totally necessary. And ol' Uncle Dave Gingery shows us ways around that.
These are small simple lathes that model makers needed. No roller bearings. Not even bronze bushings. Early lathes used a conical steel bearing running in castiron. It sounds primitive, but it worked.
Rank beginners always think they need top of the line equipment to build something. You don't need all those crazy power woodworking tools that Norm uses on television to build a birdhouse. You don't need a CNC machining center to build a model engine. I would love to build one of these small lathes to see what kind of accuracy it could provide. I suspect it would do a better job than most people would imagine. Machining on one of these simple, homemade lathes would be like cutting dovetails by hand with a backsaw and chisel. And that would be something to be proud of.
Great articles. Fascinating illustrations. Get hot. Extract ideas, adapt, combine with Gingery, etc etc. Interesting reading for technology nuts, builders, machinists, and anyone with the curiosity they're supposed to have. Get a copy. 5-1/2 x 8-1/2 soft cover 109 pages
List price is $9.95 and our price is $8.96 plus S & H.
The Founding of Metals
by Edward Kirk
"A practical treatise on the melting of iron with a description of the founding of alloys; also, of all the metals and minerals substances used in the art of founding. Collected from original sources."
Some guys think they can build a small arc furnace to melt iron and steel, just like some guys think they're going to do chrome plating on the kitchen table to save a few dollars. If they only knew of the complexity of the electrical (and other) equipment needed, they'd soon realize it just isn't feasible.
To find a workable method to melt iron, you go back a hundred years to simpler technology. For cast iron you need a cupola: a cylinder lined with a refractory. Chastain,Stewart Marshall and others will show you practical designs that they use. And Stewart recommends Kirk's 1910 cupola book (which we will again offer sometime soon). Here is, what appears to be, the third edition of Kirk's first iron book written in 1877. This is the book the established Kirk as an authority in the field.
The first section covers the technology of melting iron in a cupola and pouring castings as it was back then. The second half then covers other topics the author thought any worthwhile foundryman should know.
Check out the table of contents. Kirk covers a little of everything. Some topics run several pages, but most are only several paragraphs, simply written, and direct to the point. You get practical information.
Now before you go turning up your nose, stop and think. This is the technology that produced steam locomotives for the railroads, cast-iron storefronts for the rebuilding of Chicago after the 1871 fire, and it's also the technology used to cast the giant anchors that hold up the Brooklyn bridge to this day.
I think if you fire a cupola or plan to some day, you need to know what the old-timers knew. And I think you'll be amazed by how primitive the technology could be and still get remarkable results.
A great book from "Mr. Cupola" himself. Early, hard-to-find technological information. Consider it carefully. 5-1/2 x 8-1/2 softcover 272 numbers pages, 21 woodcuts, almost 300 pages total
List price is $11.95 and our price is $10.76 plus S & H.
ICS
Gear Calculations and Gear Cutting
[1921] REPRINTED
This combines reprints of two International Correspondence Schools course books, the first (42 pages), and probably the more useful, describing the various types of gears, and how to calculate teeth, depths etc.; if not exhaustive, this is pretty comprehensive. The second book (48 pages) covers set-ups and methods of gear cutting - the methods are mainly commercial, but the set-ups certainly have application in the model engineer’s workshop. Two Books in one, very nice reference to have on shelf. Most definitely useful stuff, 47 illustrations, plus tables. Paperback. List price is $8.95 and our price is $8.06 plus S & H.
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